In Vietnam

Consider these e-mails in lieu of postcards, since I find this much
easier to do. Thanks again for all the well-wishes. I'll try to
reply to them all as I can, but my replies may be a little short or
late. I'm sure you understand why! :)

So, we left Siem Reap after visiting the floating village on
Cambodia's large lake and the silk farm. It was really striking to
think of us 'rich' tourists cruising by the shanties that the
Cambodians and Vietnamese had set up just above the water. The water
was insanely dirty, the toilets were the lake and all the kids were
swimming around in it. Then we stopped by the Artisans d'Angkor silk
farm for a tour of the silkworms, which was completely different.
Quiet, cool, serene with many women working on sorting the silkworms
out, feeding them mulberry leaves, weaving silk from the cocoons, and
weaving cloth from the silk thread. A real class act, helping out the
poor in Cambodia through apprenticeship.

Then it was off to Hanoi by Vietnam Air. Vietnam Air has the best
seats. Hanoi airport was very clean and orderly with lots of guards.
We took a taxi to the train station to get to Hoi An, and the taxi
driver drove us to some travel booking shop. Everyone here gets a
kickback from people. Tuk-tuk drivers take kickbacks from stores for
getting you in the store, taxi drivers get kickbacks for getting you
to some tourist board... It's very frustrating and annoying,
especially when compounded by the language barrier. So we yelled at
the taxi driver, who took us to the train station after teaching us
some swearwords from a big BMW that was in his way.

The driving in Bangkok, Siem Reap and Vietnam is out of this world.
Vietnam has to be the craziest so far. Almost no lights, everyone
uses the horn constantly to announce their presence. And no one stops
for pedestrians. You just have to develop nerves of steel to cross
the street. Bangkok had crazy close traffic where everyone was making
their own lanes, generally getting *really* close to the people around
them to the point where you thought you were going to get hit.
Cambodia had the worst roads of them all, with more horn-tooting to
announce presence.

Speaking of language barrier.... At the train station we got confused
about the tickets! The lady at the counter told us it was $121 USD.
When I asked her if it was the price for each person, she nodded.
Then we went off to the information desk only to find that her price
was actually for all four of us together. We nearly had a heart
attack when we thought we'd have to pay $121 USD - our guidebook said
it was $30 USD tops!!

After this stressful experience, we finally made it to Da Nang on our
luxurious sleeper car. They fed us a free breakfast of instant
noodles and a free lunch of rice with different meat dishes and soup.
Great service on Vietnam Rail. The train ride itself was beautiful.
Just along the coast, driving by and along cliffs, passing through
river gorges. The green was incredible. Every tree seemed to have
vines all over it.

Then we got a driver to take us to Hoi An. He took us to a different
hotel than the one we asked for (speaking of kickbacks) - but this
time it was ok. The place we're staying at now is actually quite
nice. And the driver played good music! You have no idea...the music
here is always such crap; it's so nice to listen to something that I
can sing along to. For some reason, everyone likes really cheesy
music. In Bangkok, one of the restos had a small band doing Abba
covers really loudly. :(

Everyone here is trying to sell something to you here. In Bangkok,
the tuk-tuk drivers call out to you as you pass by and people sell you
postcards and other trinkets. In Siem Reap, there are entire shanty
'malls' set up around the temples, where you have to walk the gauntlet
of people calling out to you to sell you stuff. Small children and
amputees will beg. The guilt factor in Cambodia is really high. In
Hoi An, women approach you in the street, take your hand, and try to
guide you to their relative's tailor shops, shoe shops, manicure
salons... The kids came up to us with postcards while we were eating
dinner. Just don't mention the phrase "I need postcards" anywhere
around here, or else you're going to get mobbed.

Hoi An's great. Very nice (but still humid) weather, working a/c,
cold water (there was none in Siem Reap). Tomorrow, it's exploring
the old town with an afternoon on the beach and a second fitting of
our tailored clothing. We still have to find the crazy rice paddy
hats, though. :)

More updates later...